A Cinnamon Roll–Shaped Route from the City Center Outwards
If we visit the following locations in sequence, a special shape gradually emerges in the heart of Szeged. Moving from the inner city outward, the route leads us through the city in a spiral… much like a cocoa or cinnamon roll. The winter season is ideal for these slower-paced urban walks filled with frequent stops, where cafés and restaurants play just as important a role as the sights themselves.
In the Heart of Szeged – The Square of “the Bests”
The walk begins at one of Szeged’s most well-known and largest squares, Széchenyi Square. For locals, it is an everyday meeting point, while also being one of the city’s largest public spaces. Huge trees, open space, and a historic atmosphere surround the square amid the bustle of downtown life. It is a key transportation hub and a frequent venue for events. Several significant historical buildings can be found nearby, along with restaurants and cafés. The statues standing in the square – such as those of Lajos Tisza and Kunó Klebelsberg – are closely tied to Szeged’s history and development, providing a strong historical foundation for the walk.
Places worth visiting: Classic Grill Restaurant, Napfény Műterem, Kass Gallery, City Hall, Bridge of Sighs, Apartment House (Flatiron House)
A Touch of Art Nouveau, Culture, and Gastronomy
Leaving Széchenyi Square in the direction of Stefánia, we gradually approach the River Tisza. Along the way, we pass Szeged’s largest theatre and the Hungi Vigadó, whose former owner’s story has a special connection to the Titanic disaster. On Stefánia, we can immediately admire one of Szeged’s Art Nouveau gems, the colorful Deutsch Palace. Continuing through Móra Park along the banks of the Tisza, we reach the Móra Ferenc Museum, Roosevelt Square, and the Belvárosi Bridge located between them. If you would like to sample the characteristic flavors of the Southern Great Plain, you are in the right place.
Places worth visiting: Fisherman’s Tavern at Roosevelt Square, Régi Híd Restaurant, Móra Ferenc Museum, Fortress Museum
The Scent of Coffee and Urban Icons
Oskola Street – historically the city’s “second” pedestrian street – is one of the most atmospheric streets in downtown Szeged. Numerous spots invite a quick stop: coffee at Barista Goods, sweets at Sugar & Candy, Neapolitan pizza at Pizza Guru or Plebs, while Rudi és Fickó is popular for its pizzas and other treats. The street is also home to the Égő Arany building (once inhabited by oil-industry engineers and executives), made distinctive by its towering neon sign. From here, we arrive at one of Szeged’s most iconic landmarks, the Votive Church, commonly known as the Szeged Cathedral. Continuing the walk, we reach Aradi Martyrs’ Square, the university buildings, and the Heroes’ Gate, whose supporting columns and archway paintings hide remarkable details.
Places worth visiting: Tömörkény István Secondary School, Bicycling Einstein, Rerrich Béla Square, Boldogasszony Boulevard
The Scene of University Life
If instead of continuing toward Boldogasszony Boulevard we loop back, we find ourselves at Dugonics Square. Here stand the statue of Attila József and the central building of the University of Szeged, which also houses the Rector’s Office. Nearby is the Ungár–Mayer Palace, a pink-hued Art Nouveau building connecting Dugonics Square with Kárász Street.
Places worth visiting: Szeged Department Store, Pince Theatre, DTK & PUB, JATE Club
Szeged’s Main Street
The Ungár–Mayer Palace provides a natural transition to Szeged’s most famous pedestrian street, Kárász Street. Even in winter, it remains lively and bustling, lined with shops, restaurants, and cafés. Despite the crowds, there is always a place to slow down and relax. From Kárász Street, Klauzál Square opens up – one of Szeged’s favorite meeting points. The square hides two unique inner courtyards that offer a quieter, more intimate atmosphere and a true urban surprise. These courtyards are especially captivating in winter, when stepping out of the busy pedestrian street leads into a calm, hidden world. Leaving the main street, we pass the Reök Palace, one of Szeged’s most beautiful Art Nouveau buildings, and can stop for a hot chocolate or a special dessert at the REÖK Artisanal Pastry Shop inside.
Places worth visiting: Kék Elefánt Café, A Capella Confectionery and Café, John Bull Pub, Corso Café, Szeged Bagel, Trattoria il Divo, Kárász Courtyard, Wagner Courtyard
The Outer Curve of the Cinnamon Roll
Crossing Tisza Lajos Boulevard and continuing along Gutenberg Street, we reach the Szeged Synagogue, an impressive sight with its size and ornate decoration. Near the synagogue, approaching from the Old Synagogue, we may stumble upon a hidden mural – an authentic small urban detail noticed only by attentive walkers, yet a special splash of color along the route. Returning to Tisza Lajos Boulevard, a longer walk leads us to Anna Spring, where the Anna Bath, the distinctive Protestant Church and other iconic buildings define the character of the area. Although this district is an important public transport hub, it still retains a downtown atmosphere. The spiral ends at the Water Tower on Saint Stephen Square, the “Old Lady.” At the nearby Saint Cafe & Wine, we can enjoy a warm drink while admiring the tower – a fitting conclusion to this inward-to-outward urban walk.
Places worth visiting: Twin Villas, Gróf Palace, Saint Rókus Church, Kiss Kunszt Gallery
Szeged’s Quieter, Human-Scale Face
In Alsóváros (Lower Town), we discover a calmer, quieter side of Szeged. Although the district is not free from traffic, it moves at a completely different rhythm than the city center. Winter walks here are especially pleasant: low-rise houses, historic streets, and reduced urban noise create an intimate atmosphere.
One of the walk’s most outstanding stops is the Franciscan Church and Monastery of Szeged, the spiritual and historical center of Alsóváros. The interior is open to visitors, but it is also worth walking around the building from the outside, as it reveals a different face from every angle – especially in winter, when a light dusting of snow enhances the view. Turning into Nyíl Street, we reach one of Alsóváros’s best-known curiosities, the Traditional Rural House Museum. The sunray motifs radiating from the center of the gable are not unique to this building; they appear on many houses throughout the district. While wandering the area, it is worth paying attention to these gable decorations, as the sunbeam motif is one of Alsóváros’s most characteristic visual elements. As we circle through the streets, attentive visitors may notice charming small details. At the intersection of Szent Antal Street and Bálvány Street, for example, a rare and endearing sight awaits: a “Caution: Cat Crossing” sign that perfectly captures the district’s friendly, human-scale character.
Places worth visiting: Kapca x Rézhárs Bistro, Emmarozs – Trinity
Nature, Tranquility, and Long Walks on the Green Side of the City
Újszeged is perhaps the district where winter walks are the longest yet the most peaceful. Here, the urban environment gradually fades into the background and gives way to nature. Before setting off on the longer route, it is worth stopping at BIBB Café to enjoy a warm coffee, tea, or hot chocolate. From here, Torontál Square is easily accessible, home to the Church of Saint Elizabeth of the Árpád Dynasty. The building shows a different face in every season, but in winter it is particularly beautiful with its subdued surroundings and calm atmosphere. Continuing from the church, we arrive at Erzsébet Park, one of Szeged’s most beloved green spaces. Walking through the park offers truly nature-centered moments: in winter, bare trees, snow-covered paths, and silence create a unique mood. Turning toward Székely Row from the park, we encounter a striking urban detail: on the wall of the ten-story building at number 21, a huge mural depicts an Art Nouveau–style female figure holding a mobile phone, with a mayfly balancing on its screen. Blending modern and classical elements, this artwork is an unexpected yet memorable stop along the route. From here, the path continues deeper into nature along the banks of the Holt-Maros. Walking beside the water, we catch glimpses of the water tower, while filtered light through tree branches, snow-covered wooded areas, and winter silence transport us into a completely different world. This stretch is one of the calmest parts of Újszeged, where the closeness of nature is truly tangible. Following a longer loop, we can also reach the area around the Szeged Botanical Garden, where we may choose to enter and explore its themed gardens. At the end of the walk, following the banks of the Tisza, we gradually return to the Belvárosi Bridge.
Places worth visiting: Szeged Observatory, Fasor Restaurant and Café Semiramis, Blues Garden Pub and Restaurant
